Baby or pet gates #
Gates are used to keep the dogs in puppy-proofed rooms and keep them out of those that are not yet safe.
Select metal or plastic until you know your dog will not chew on wood.
Select sturdy enough and high enough for your dog and install with care because if the dog gets through it once, it has learned it can and will continue to challenge barriers
Pens are used to provide a puppy proofed space when a whole room is not available. They can be set up for long term situations by provided a location in the pen, such as papers or a litter pan, for the dog to use to eliminate.
Select metal or plastic because many dogs chew on wood.
Select sturdy enough and high enough for your dog because if the dog gets out once, it has learned it can and will continue to challenge barriers.
Keep anything the dog can climb on near the center of the pen so the pup cannot use it to climb over the edge of the pen.
Crates are used for short-term confinement (dog must be allowed out before the next time it needs to eliminate). Except for giant breeds, they can be used in various rooms, in the car, in hotel rooms and outdoors in good weather.
A well-sized crate should allow the dog to stand up completely, turn around easily, and lie down flat on its side. Select a crate to fit the size that you pup is now because one that is too large allows the pup room to sleep at one end and pee at the other.
Keep the crate free of bedding until you are certain that the dog will not pee in the crate or chew on the bedding.
Tethers are essentially leashes that are anchored to something to prevent the dog from having free access to too many opportunities. It may be a leash tied to your waist with you as the anchor, or a specially designed tether attached a wall or other sturdy object. The tether is intended for short-term use under supervision.
I use a plastic coated steel cable with a hook on each end. One end attaches to the dog’s flat buckle collar and the other to a sturdy eye-bolt in a baseboard. The dog can be tethered in any rom that has an eye-bolt, is easier to move than a crate and takes up less space. These tethers can be ordered in a variety of lengths from www.pettethers.com.
Choose a flat or rolled collar that cannot slip off over you dog’s ears because if the dog can slip out, the collar will not keep the dog safe. Avoid collars that tighten completely around the neck or have any type of prongs or shocks that may be aversive. The collar must always be benign from the dog’s point of view or it will create anxiety that will interfere with learning.
My personal preference is a rolled leather buckle collar.
Choose a leash that:
- is strong enough to restrain your dog.
- has a sturdy, easy to use snap.
- is comfortable in your hands.
- remains at a consistent length.
- your dog does not chew
My personal preference for a growing puppy is a four-foot nylon leash.
My personal preference for an adult, well-mannered dog is a six-foot leather leash.
Choose a harness that allows you to attach the leash at the front to the dog’s chest, under its neck because this gives you a mechanical advantage and prevents the dog from pulling hard on the leash.
Note: For the harness to function properly it must be carefully and snugly fit according to the directions.
Head halters #
These are helpful in some cases, but I recommend them rarely now that there are so many options in harnesses, because it often takes less time for a dog to adjust to wearing a harness.
Note: For the halter to function properly it must be carefully and snugly fit according to the directions.
Seat belts #
I recommend that dogs are secured when riding in a car for everyone’s safety. I use crates in the car to restrain my dogs, but if you cannot do so, please get a seat belt for your dog.
Teach your dog to wear a muzzle to prepare for the unexpected. If your dog did not learn bite inhibition before it was 12 weeks old there is a much greater chance that it will bite too hard at some time. Wearing a muzzle can help you feel secure that nothing terrible can happen. Although my dogs are well-behaved and cooperative at the veterinary office, I muzzle them sometimes for two reasons: 1) to practice the process and 2) because the staff faces dangerous dogs regularly so they are always on guard and they relax more when a dog is muzzled already.
Select a sturdy basket type, such as a Baskerville brand muzzle.
To begin, show the muzzle, give a treat, and hide the muzzle again. Repeat several times, until the pup looks forward to seeing the muzzle. As the dog begins to approach the muzzle, begin giving the treat through the front of the muzzle so that the dog reaches into it to get the treat. Next, hold the muzzle out and wait for the dog to put its snout in the muzzle, click and treat through the front of the muzzle. As the dog becomes comfortable with this, buckle and unbuckle the muzzle several times, always giving a treat for both the buckle and unbuckle. Practice until it is routine for the dog to be muzzled.